A week in Provence

Well, actually, the first of four weeks in Provence...

We're fortunate to have a villa nestled in the hills of Provence—specifically in Marseille—where we've spent the last few summers. From our base here, we visit the quaint villages, traditional hamlets, and expansive vineyards in the department of Var.

During our first week, we explored Bandol, which is a commune in the Var department, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region. Here’s what it looked like through my lens.

It’s washday somewhere in the world. ‘La Mistral’ is the strong northwesterly wind found in southern France.

The mistral helps explain the unusually sunny climate (2700 to 2900 hours of sunshine a year) and the clarity of the air of Provence. When other parts of France have clouds and storms, Provence is rarely affected for long, since the mistral quickly clears the sky.

Nooks and crannies … a miniature ginnel by the side of the local church. The steps are as slippy as they look. To the right is a parrot in a cage at the local bar. I worry that he’s sad!

The femme de savon

The soap lady

This steel-haired lady—above— didn’t notice me (or my lens) as she worked to arrange and organise her soaps by colour. There was no shade; the heat was relentless at this morning market.

The 'sweetie lady' stands at the evening market in Bandol, where the blend of aromas of fresh produce and bustling chatter envelops the air.

The sweetie lady

Her collection is a visual feast, from caramelised nuts glistening under the market lights to the playful twist of strawberry laces, from the vibrant packets of Haribo to the nostalgic allure of sherbet spaceships.

She has perfected the art of hospitality with years of tending to this stall. Her laughter is genuine and infectious.

This image encapsulates an experience of tradition, warmth, and the enduring allure of sweets and smiles.

The longest-standing olive stall in Le Beausset (nearby market)

Oliver has been running this olive stall for as long as I can recall. I’ve been visiting this regular weekly market for over twenty years, and he has always been ready with a humourous comment and a gift of olives for my two daughters. Now his son has joined him! The bags of noir Grec and pimento olives are always fresh.

Eglise Saint-François-de-Sales — the local church in the square built by locals in the 1500s. Lyla (my youngest daughter) had one million questions about religion after this visit.

The cost of lighting a candle for a loved one has not been spared from the rising cost of living — now priced at €1!

This morning, I had a cafe au lait in the square of the tiny Provençal village, Le Beausset.

Windswept stalls of savon de Marseille soaps in every colour/scent, olives of every origin and spice, traditional linens, and antiquités laid out down the streets.

I bought Roquefort saucisson (3 for €10), juicy cœur de bœuf tomatoes for a salad, vinaigrette and Dijon mustard for a Persoglio dressing and a paper bag filled with warm flat peaches warmed by the sun 🍑

Vide-greniers, brocantes, puces et braderies

The back streets, beyond the polish and glamour of the main port of Bandol, is where I found the vide-greniers, brocantes, puces et braderies (flea markets, antiques, jumble sales).

Yannick Noah — minus the tennis racquet

Every summer, local and international artists meet in August in an idyllic setting for the event known as Les Aoutiennes, this year featured tennis player-turned-pop star Yannick Noah.

The carousel at the end of the main street. We found a nearby bench where we talked about Egypt, life, and pastries while we watched the colours of the carousel in the inky black night.

I adore this place. This year feels especially poignant, as I sense the inevitable tug of my two daughters approaching their teenage years. This transition could herald the end of these long, languid summers, as they may opt to spend their time with friends back in the UK. I understand them completely. As a teenager, I would have done anything to avoid spending the entirety of the summer away from my friends in the UK.

For now, we’re making the most of fresh mornings in the shade of our Cypress tree, breakfasts together on the balcony and drives along the corniche to watch the sun cast the city of Marseille in the most astonishing shades of peach and amber.

Where do you like to holiday? Do you prefer beach or city exploration?