Paris revisited and rekindled
Three long years have passed since I last set foot in my favourite city – Paris. It’s a place that has always felt like a second home.
The Covid pandemic separated us, but now, finally, we are reunited for at least a week. What will I find? How has it changed?
Chapter 1: The bakery on Rue Lepic
My journey begins at the dark and cosy Urban Bakery on Rue Lepic, a curvaceous street made famous by the quirky tale of Amélie Poulain. Seated in a dark corner, I clutch my café au lait, and pick at a pecan pastry, made with passionate distaste by the server behind the counter. He would clearly prefer that I drink espresso.
On the next table along, a bustling American lady whines loudly for the benefit of the growing queue that ‘monsieurrrrr’ hasn’t brought her ‘teeeeea’ – she draws out the vowel in a whine. The server rolls his eyes loudly (yes – loudly) and throws his hands in the air. He huffs, flounces into the kitchen to smash teacups around, and returns with a half-filled cup of pissy tea. He throws it down in front of her and in his finest clipped English with a thick Parisian accent: ‘Your TEEEEEEEA, madam.’
Chapter 2: Photography in the City of Light
The lockdown intensifies my love for photography, forcing me to find beauty in my immediate surroundings, so Paris is a treat for my lens – even more so than usual. From the everyday lives of Parisians on the metro to the vibrant buskers outside Les Murs d'amour (The Wall of Love – a public art installation) by Abbesses Metro, I often capture the city's essence covertly.
Chapter 3: The sensory symphony of Paris
The rich aromas of fresh pastries from boulangeries and the many florist shops (there’s a standard requirement for olfactory and visual beauty here), the metallic scent of fish at the poissonière, and the lingering smell of Gauloises cigarettes create a sensory symphony that is quintessentially Parisian. As I wander through Pigalle at sunset, the air is warm and filled with the perfume of light nights and French cuisine.
Chapter 4: A deeper connection to Paris
Over the next few days, I focus on capturing Paris from an intimate perspective, inspired by my family's connection to France and the memories of my wedding in the charming district near the Jules Joffrin metro. Choosing the metro as my primary canvas, I devote hours each night to editing photos that reflect the emotions and stories of the people I encounter. Through this approach, I hope to convey the true essence of the City of Lights, highlighting the rich cultural ties that bind us together.
Chapter 5: The wonders of Rue de Rivoli
At 59 Rue de Rivoli, I stumble upon a captivating sight. This impressive Haussmann building is adorned with hand-painted portraits beside each of its towering windows. Drawn by curiosity, I cross the busy street to learn more about this mesmerising place, almost colliding with an eager cyclist in the process. Inside this artistic haven, I discover a thriving community of artists at work, their creative energy palpable as they paint, sculpt, and sketch while visitors observe in awe. The six-storey building is a labyrinth of creativity, each floor showcasing the unique styles and talents of the resident artists.
The staircase itself is a masterpiece, with every inch of the stairwell transformed into a canvas for the artists' imaginative expressions – from Dali-esque eyes to abstract scenes and vibrant tropical creatures. A visit to 59 Rue de Rivoli is an unforgettable experience, offering an intimate glimpse into the heart of Parisian artistic culture.
Chapter 6: Montmartre and its enduring charm
The charming streets of Montmartre beckon. My daughters and I explore its cobblestone paths as Lyla insists on buying a raspberry beret (she loves the song!) from a street vendor. We climb the steps to the Sacre Coeur, witnessing its majestic beauty illuminated after dark. People are just silhouetted up here at this time of night. I can see into the windows and personal lives of those Parisians who have become somewhat desensitized to the stunning views in front of them.
Chapter 7: Pere Lachaise Cemetery and the Catacombs
The next day, we head off on the metro to Cimitiere Père Lachaise, the celebrity cemetery and the final resting place of many notable figures. We take the kids for a picnic and a look at some of the oldest graves in the city. Continuing along the same theme, we visit the eerie Catacombs beneath the city, a haunting reminder of Paris's past. It’s certainly not for everyone, as it houses the bodies of six million people and is a humbling experience.
Chapter 8: Culinary adventures in Paris
Our taste buds are treated to an array of culinary delights during our stay. From the traditional, hearty French dishes served in cosy bistros to the myriad of international flavours found in trendy fusion restaurants. The 6am aroma of fresh baguettes and pastries from local bakeries, charcuterie and cheeses from speciality shops, and the mouth-watering display of chocolates and macarons in patisseries.
Le Refuge des Fondus comes highly recommended. This intimate restaurant is known for its cheese and meat fondues and quirky decor (such as tables made from old barrels). It's located at 17 Rue des 3 Frères, near the Latin Quarter.
We love the Algerian dishes at Café du Theatre by the Theatre de Paris. The succulent merguez sausages and fluffy couscous make you dribble into your napkin. The vibrant spices and authentic preparation transport you straight to North Africa. Their homemade harissa paste is phenomenally spicy yet utterly irresistible. The owner of Café du Theatre even warns me: "It's hot, but it is not dangerous." I polish off half of the jar, leaving him suitably impressed.
Chapter 9: The metro – a microcosm of Parisian life
The metro provides endless fascination, just people watching to the maximum. People are absorbed in their smartphones, reading books (imagine!), and going about their daily lives. Each person seems to be a walking story.
It’s here that I can sense the dregs of the pandemic. Older people don facemasks and stand with their backs to other travellers. There are metallic hand sanitiser dispensers that have long since run dry at entrances and exits of stations.
My kids and I play a game where we imagine these strangers' lives, fears, and dreams. We try to guess where they’re going, where they’ve been and what keeps them up at night. The story usually has a crisis point – they’ve lost their cat and are on a mission to find them amongst the maze of streets; one is a failed guitarist who has decided to start at the bottom, and another is a clown on his way to a party, but he’s sad.
We notice the cultural differences between Parisians and those back home in the UK, noting the emphasis on individuality and a lack of concern for popular brands and lip filler.
Chapter 10: An evening stroll through Pigalle
As the sun sets over Pigalle, the buildings take on a pink hue, casting a warm glow over the cobbled streets. I feel the same thrill I had as a teenager, venturing out after hours and tasting the night's excitement. A series of trendy bars, cafes, and shops cater to an artistic and bohemian crowd. In recent years, the area of Montmartre has grown in popularity, with hip boutiques and creative spaces popping up in every corner.
Chapter 11: The village within the city
Throughout our visit, we discover the heartbeat of Paris in the streets, cafes, and people who bring the city to life. The city of lights offers so much, from the bustling Rue Lepic to the romantic Montmartre district. We are enchanted by the village-like atmosphere that permeates every corner of Paris.
In the 18th arrondissement, this hilltop district is famous for its artistic heritage, cobbled streets, and stunning views of the city below. With local artisans, bakers, and shopkeepers contributing to the village-like ambience. At its heart is the Place du Tertre, where artists have gathered for decades to paint, sell their work, and engage with visitors.
Chapter 12: Shakespeare and Company - a literary sanctuary
No visit to Paris is complete without a stop at the iconic Shakespeare and Company bookshop, nestled in the heart of the Latin Quarter, just a stone's throw from Notre Dame Cathedral. The scent of old books isn’t for everyone, but this mingled with the fresh aroma of coffee from the adjoining café is a unique signature aroma I’d recognise anywhere. The shop is a maze of narrow, winding passages filled floor to ceiling with books of all genres, from classic literature to contemporary fiction and poetry. I could live here.
Chapter 13: Farewell, Paris – until we meet again
As our five days in Paris draw to a close, we try to soak in as much of the city as possible. Notre Dame is forlorn without her regal spire, but construction continues earnestly. We make it to the Eiffel Tower's second floor and watch the Parisian skyline transition from day to dusk.
While Paris has changed due to the Covid pandemic, the city's soul and charm continue to endure. As the world recovers and adapts to a new normal, Paris will likely evolve further, embracing its rich history and contemporary challenges.
Though it is a whirlwind adventure, the memories we create will last a lifetime. The city has changed in some ways, but its essence and charm remain as captivating as ever. Our trip to Paris after three long years is nothing short of magical. A bientot.
Other places not to be missed: Canal Saint Martin, Beaubourg (Pompidou Centre), River Seine (for a midnight walk but take a bottle of wine and a baguette), Les Halles Saint Pierre (exhibitions, cafe, bookshop), Musee D’Orsay.
Great photos, Nat!
Beautiful ♥️