Market day in the belly of Marseille

Market day in vibrant and edgy Noailles. Hang on to your backpacks and purses, this is a notorious part of Marseille…

Today we visited our final French market this summer.

This Sunday, we're heading back to the UK, with our car stuck in a garage somewhere in the south of France, uncertain of when it’ll be repaired. The delay is down to two bank holidays (the French like those) that led to a backlog at the garages, pushing our issue down the priority list.

Consequently, we'll take the Eurostar—a twelve-hour train ride from Gare Saint Charles to London St Pancras, then home.

Though unexpected, we’re trying (so hard) to view it as an adventure, or as my eldest daughter puts it, "just a bump in the road." Ironically, it was a literal bump that initiated our car troubles this year.

In a few weeks, we'll need to return to Marseille by flight to retrieve our belongings and bring our car back home—a journey that will span another three days.

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Noailles - the belly of Marseille

In the meantime, here are some words and more photos about today’s street market in a grittier part of Marseille.

Noailles’ Marche des Capuchins daily market

Noailles is a district of the city, a melting pot of cultures and flavours, just a short distance from the bustling Vieux Port, Cours Julien and La Canebière.

As we walked through the chaotic, crammed cobbled streets, the market unveiled a tapestry of scents, sights, and sounds that encapsulate the spirit of the Marseille and beyond.

Santal, lavande, menthe du Maroc, rose, noix — so much for the eyes and nose to take in.

Market stalls line the alleys in a haphazard style, their stalls jammed with vibrant displays of fruits, from plump figs to the largest watermelons I've ever seen, and an array of vegetables, many of which are unfamiliar to the Western palate but are staples in local dishes. The aroma of spices like cumin, saffron, and coriander wafts through the air.

Merguez, saucisson — a thousand varieties.

This daily market is known as Marche des Capuchins, and it sells North African fabrics and ceramics, alongside fruit, meat, and dried goods; and is popular for its tea shops, kebabs and food stalls serving flatbread and couscous.

You can literally hear the sizzle of street food being prepared on the spot. The traditional Moroccan meloui pancakes from Rue d’Aubagne are worth the journey on their own. Algerian flatbreads and Tunisian pastries are just some of the delicacies you can pick up for just a few euros.

Meat feast

There’s an edgier, less easy to digest (literally) part of the market that deals in meat. And I mean this is visceral.

Here, you won’t find neatly packaged products with a sticker of leaping cows.

I’m talking entire carcasses lined up and swinging, sheep heads and parts of the body that would have you vegan in seconds.

Moroccan pottery

Deeper into the market, look out for (your bag!) and intricately designed pottery, woven baskets, and traditional fabrics by local artisans. The traditional Moroccan pottery is beautiful, with outdoor terracotta tagines for around €25.

Also, keep your eyes peeled for the antique stalls as part of the brocantes areas of the market with lobster casserole pots, pottery and the most beautiful (traditional) cookware.

Visiting Noailles is not just about shopping; it's an immersive experience, a journey through cultures, traditions, and flavours. It's a testament to Marseille's rich heritage and its embrace of diversity.

I hope you enjoyed reading this. If you’d like to read more about travel, check out my week in Provence, or Paris - revisited and rekindled. As always, I’d love to hear what you think and your own travel plans/memories.